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Homestead Magazine Summer 2008: A wine of their own

By Lorne McClinton

Golden Beaver's vineyards have a spectacular view of British Columbia's Okanagan Valley Couple liquidates everything they own to buy their own vineyard and winery

There are few better ways to cap off a long, hard day of work in your vineyard than sharing a few glasses of your own vintage wine with friends. After all, owning your own vineyard is the stuff Hollywood dreams are made of. Bruno Kelle and Stella Schmidt fell in love with the idea of buying a vineyard while wine touring through British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. The couple liquidated everything they owned in Calgary, Alberta and used the proceeds to buy a small, rundown, 8-acre Okanagan vineyard and winery that is located between Oliver and Osoyoos.

"Owning a winery wasn’t something we had thought about for years and years," Bruno says. "One day we just decided we’re going to do it, and within a year we had a winery."

Boyhood memories. Bruno says that, while the decision to buy a winery was sudden, the couple had been thinking of moving to the country for some time. He was sick of being away from home for long periods of time for work and wistfully recalled boyhood memories of working with his father on the family’s tobacco farm in Ontario.

"My dad loved farming, but I took it all for granted when I was growing up," he says. "I started to think that perhaps moving back to the country and starting a family business would be a good thing for myself and for my children. I wanted to be out in the sunshine down in the southern Okanagan. The idea of being my own boss and making a value-added product, like wine, really appealed to me."

Stella came across a vineyard for sale on the Internet and the couple drove down from Calgary right away to look at it. They found that it was in rough shape but had potential.

"We thought that if we did some hard work and put in some sweat equity, we could fix the place up," Bruno says. "It’s got a great location, right on the highway, and has beautiful grape-growing land. The vineyard has a nice slope, no frost pockets, and had ten varieties of really nice grapes. We put an offer in and they accepted it." Golden Beaver Winery was born.

Play the name game. The couple focused on finding the right name. "Bruno and I wanted to come up with a fun, memorable name," Stella says. "We wanted something like Yellow Tail Winery’s label, the Australian one with the wallaby, but with a Canadian theme."

The result was the unforgettable Golden Beaver label featuring a grinning cartoon beaver in shorts hoisting a glass of wine. The "Golden" part of the name refers to The Golden Mile, the part of the Okanagan Valley where their Vineyard is located, and "Beaver" was chosen because it’s Canada’s National Animal. While the name is casual, their wines are first-rate. Their unique specialties are two Vin de Curé wines made by partially drying the grapes before pressing.

Learning curve. After purchasing the winery, the couple had a very steep learning curve in front of them. Bruno knew a lot about growing tobacco and fresh herbs, but neither of them had any experience growing grapes or running a winery. They took a wine-making course at the University of British Columbia and hired Gary Strachan, a winery startup specialist, to help them get their feet on the ground. Despite the romance associated with owning a vineyard and winery, the couple quickly found that running one is really, really hard work. Eight acres of grapes won’t generate enough revenue to justify hiring staff so they have had to do most of the work themselves. Bruno tends the vines and makes the wine, while Stella looks after the wine shop and does all the bookkeeping.

"It’s a steady job, 12 hours a day, 7 days a week," Bruno says. "People come into the wine shop and tell us they want to own a vineyard when they retire. Retire? I’ve never worked this hard in my life. I used to think I worked hard on my Dad’s tobacco farm, but no way, this is really tough work. I lost 20 pounds in three months when I moved here from Calgary and haven’t put it back on. I’m skinny as a pole right now but I’m in great shape."

Despite all that work, the couple feels it’s worth it when neighbors, family, and friends drop by at the end of the day. They pull out a few bottles of wine, get some crackers and cheese, then just sit back and enjoy life.

"In the end, that is what keeps us moving forward," Bruno says. "We love the wine industry. We’re working hard now but someday we hope we can relax, enjoy the fruits of our labor, and watch my kids take over."




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