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Maintaining your gravel driveway (Fall 2005)

Fix potholes and ruts with your tractor and a rear blade

Homestead magazine Gravel driveways are more economical than concrete, but they wear faster and are prone to damage. Before you know it, you'll be navigating over potholes and ruts. With some routine maintenance using your tractor and a rear blade, you can keep your driveway in perfect shape.

It's all about drainage
Standing water on a gravel driveway softens the subsurface and makes it easier for potholes and ruts to form. Driveways constructed with an "A" shaped crown (see illustration) drain water the best. As you drive on the surface over time, the gravel will work its way from the crown to the wheel tracks, resulting in a parabolic, or "rounded" crown. Water will begin to stand on the driveway, and potholes and ruts will form as you drive on it. Eventually, the driveway will become "W" shaped. Snowplows won't be able to effectively clear the surface and may further damage the driveway. The key to a properly maintained driveway is rebuilding the crown throughout the year. You should rebuild the crown at least twice, once in the spring to fix any winter damage, and once in the fall to prepare the driveway for winter.

Reshaping
Reshaping is cutting down to the bottom of all potholes and ruts, leveling out the surface, and rebuilding the crown. It's generally done in late spring or immediately after a rain, which will loosen the rock and minimize dust.

If your driveway is in bad shape, you may need to add gravel. Use your rear blade to reshape the driveway, then have the gravel delivered and dropped across the length of the driveway. Finish the job by leveling the gravel and building the crown. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, gravel driveways should be maintained with 1/2 inch of height per foot of width.

Smoothing
For driveways with a rounded crown, smoothing with your rear blade tilted and set at an angle will build the crown back up in just a few passes. Work at a slow speed; faster speeds will cause your tractor to bounce and the rear blade to cut ridges, called "washboarding." Smooth your driveway as often as necessary, as well as before the first freeze.

Buying a rear blade
When choosing a rear blade, it is important to match your tractor with an appropriately sized blade. Most blades allow you to adjust the angle and tilt of the cutting edge manually, while some offer hydraulic control. Rebuilding the crown is easier when the blade is tilted. If you cannot change the blade's tilt, you'll have to use your tractor's 3-point hitch to get the blade into the desired position. To push gravel into place, you should be able to rotate the blade 360 degrees. Finally, the cutting edge should be easy to replace once worn.




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