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Homestead Magazine Summer 2008: Tour-De-Prance

By Dean Houghton

A mount waits patiently in a Sante Fe stable for the start of the endurance race This endurance horse race retraces the historic Santa Fe Trail

High on the Glorieta Mesa, all is quiet in the pre-dawn hours of Labor Day, and, with no artificial lights for miles around, it is as dark as it gets. Just as the clock hits 5:30 a.m., a lone coyote sends out a howl that splits the thin air on this 7,000-foot plateau, a fitting wake-up call for four-dozen horses and riders who are about to take the first steps on a two-week-long, 515-mile adventure.

These long riders were the pioneers in a new event, the 2007 Great Santa Fe Trail Horse Race Endurance Ride. Riders and their mounts began to stir for breakfast just as the first purple rays of dawn were beginning to wash New Mexico’s Sangre De Cristo mountains that were the background to the starting point of the race, just a few miles east of Santa Fe. It may sound like a description from a dime-store Western novel, but it was perfectly fitting. After all, this event is a mix of racing and romance, a celebration of horses and history all wrapped up in a withering ride across a part of the High Plains that remains surprisingly wide open in the 21st Century.

"The Santa Fe Trail was our nation's first international trade highway," says Rob Phillips, the Lawrence, Kan., horse-and-history enthusiast who organized the race. "The connection between the Santa Fe Trail and the horse makes for something magic." The explorer Coronado traveled this path in 1541, introducing Native Americans to the horse.

Phillips and a team of volunteers worked for 18 months to find a path, on both public and private lands, that would closely follow the original trail. The race was set up along the lines of the Tour de France bike race, with 10 stages of about 50 miles each. The original Santa Fe Trail officially opened in 1821 when trader William Becknell hauled goods via mule train from Missouri to the plaza in Santa Fe, which was a part of Mexico. The trail became an 800-mile long trade artery that connected Kansas City to Santa Fe, allowing merchants to sell their manufactured goods in Santa Fe, and bring back the region’s silver and other valuables to Missouri. The 2007 race began on the mesa and ended just south of Kansas City at Gardner, Kan., allowing 515 miles on horseback, with horses trailered at times to cover the remaining distance.

There’s also a legendary connection between the Santa Fe Trail and endurance horse racing. Francis X. Aubry, a trader and daredevil, made a $1,000 bet that he could ride the trail in six days. According to the legend, he left the plaza in Santa Fe and rode hell-bent-for-leather, night and day, swapping horses along the trail, and made it to Kansas City just five days and 16 hours later. According to newspaper accounts of the feat, Aubry arrived much worse for the wear, and the horses he rode didn’t fare any better.

Both the horses and the riders had much more care during the two weeks of the Great Santa Fe Trail Horse Race Endurance Ride. Under the guidelines of the American Endurance Ride Conference, horses were checked for condition before and after each stage, as well as at mandatory veterinary checks at a couple of points within each day’s ride. There also was a tank of water waiting every five miles along the route, allowing horses to stay cool and hydrated.

Feels like family. The colorful cast of characters who made this first-ever Santa Fe ride were galvanized into a family by the miles together on the trail. The sign painted on Tonya Bear's truck reminds folks that she's known as T. Bear. This Missouri rider is a veteran of endurance events, and she has developed a strategy for this one. "In most cases, I would compete to win," she says. "On this event, I intend to compete to complete. It’s a long ride, so just finishing it is an accomplishment."

There’s a 66-year-old rider from Maryland who brought his stallion out early to get used to the elevation. The man’s name is Jean Albert Renaud, but out here, they call him JAR. He’s an entire notebook full of stories all by himself. He and his horses have climbed on an airplane to participate in endurance events in the Middle East, and European royalty keep him on their speed dial list. He is the only rider on the Great Santa Fe Trail race to have produced his own music video about horses and riding. And without a doubt, he led the race in the amount of hugs delivered. "This event has shortened the distance between horsemen across America," he says. "It’s a great chance to share knowledge and our love for the horse. These people have become my new family."

As you would expect to see at an endurance event, horses with Arabian blood are the norm. Strong and lightweight endurance saddles, hi-tech riding clothing, and high-impact plastic helmets are the standard outfit. Except for California rider J Allen (just J, not J. or Jay). He's about to set sail on an American Quarter Horse, and he's riding an elegantly tooled, but heavy, Western saddle, while wearing jeans and boots and his well-worn cowboy hat. Sitting at the Santa Fe Downs racetrack, which served as a staging area before the race, J talks with a reporter as a light rain falls. "Nobody thinks I have a chance," he confides. But he will prove them wrong. Not only did he finish the ride, he ranked among the leaders on several of the race stages. And he’ll be back for the 2008 version of the race, once again starting on Labor Day weekend. (For more information, you can visit www.sfthorserace.com)

Other riders have a passion for a cause. Texan Mac McSwain is riding a Spanish Mustang, helping call attention to efforts to preserve and protect America's first horse. The Mustang is a natural for this kind of riding, and Mac does well until Dodge City, when an admiring throng of folks spook his young horse, dumping Mac, who ends up with a broken collarbone. Mac's wife, Diane, picked up the reins and finished out the ride.

Then there is Laura Hayes, a New York endurance rider who completed seven of the 10 stages of the 2007 Santa Fe ride. She’ll be back for 2008, riding the trail to raise money for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society in memory of Alison Marie Hayes, who died in December 2007 at age 19. Laura plans to organize bone-marrow registry drives in some of the towns along the trail, hoping to raise awareness of the need for donors.

Like the Tour de France, the Great Santa Fe Trail Horse Race Endurance Ride allows fans to get up close and personal with the participants. Race villages at tour stops celebrated the arrival of the riders with music, storytelling, and a carnival atmosphere. The town of Council Grove, Kan., really embraced the ride, taking advantage of its time as a tour stop to provide a mini-festival. In turn, many riders ventured down to the Hays House restaurant to tip a toast to the trail at the very same bar where Gen. George Custer was known to wet his whistle when he was stationed in the area. Even the Kansas Lottery got into the act, issuing a popular $2 instant ticket dedicated to the ride.

Getting to know the riders again will be a priority for the 2008 race, as race promoter Phillips is working with tourism officials to encourage folks to follow along the race with their recreational vehicle and stay overnight near the participants. "It’s a chance to develop rural tourism by targeting people who can bring their hotel room with them," he says. He hopes to see the Santa Fe ride become an annual attraction.

The 2007 event downplayed the competitive aspect of endurance racing, but there were winners that were recognized at the end of the trail. Scott Griffin, a Seattle-based relative newcomer to endurance riding, was the overall winner with a combined time of 61.9 hours. California rider Karen Fredrickson was recognized as the top participant among those who rode only one horse over the course of the ride. Her horse, Murphy, took her over the trail in 86.1 hours. Only two other riders completed each of the 10 stages. "Everyone became a part of history," Phillips says. "It’s a story they can tell their grandchildren."




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